Or anyway, horses
rarely seem to think so. When they see their buddies doing something,
they want to do it too! And if possible, first! In their efforts to do
so they often indulge in such undesirable behavior as bucking,
snatching the bit, running up or whatever else they can think of to
cow their riders into submission. For no other reason than that of
safety it is important to understand why your horse wants to do this
and how to train him otherwise. |
The reasons he
wants to run up with his buddies are probably obvious to most of you.
The horse in nature generally doesn't run unless he is being chased,
and if the herd is being chased the horses in the middle or the front
are the least likely to get caught. Because his herd instincts are
strong the horse has a very demanding need not to get left behind.
Unfortunately, he and his rider often get into a 'lose-lose'
situation. The other horses start to move off, and the rider
anticipates that her horse will try to break away and follow, or buck
or whatever it is he does. In her efforts to prevent this she holds
him in very tightly. She thinks she's saying, "Don't buck,"
but the horse thinks she's saying, "You can't go with them. I'm
going to make you stay here so the bear can eat you for lunch!"
Naturally he doesn't care for that idea, so he gets more vigorous in
his protests, which she interprets as more threatening, so she buys a
bigger bit and so on. |
Therefore your
goal is to explain to your horse that you are not going to let him get
eaten by the bear, even if it seems like it. There are two solutions
to this problem, one is short term and the other is long term. |
The short term one
is used if you are on an unfamiliar horse or haven't had time to
school your horse long term or perhaps if a less experienced rider is
along who needs an easy out. This works for most horses. All you do is
to ask the people ahead of you to tell you when they are going to
increase pace before they do so. Then you start increasing pace with
your horse just a little bit before they do. You have to have some
distance between you and the horse in front--enough for a couple of
steps--so you don't pile into him before he has a chance to move. If
your horse won't wait back at all you can make a quick little circle
and start him trotting as he comes around to face front again. In any
case, by starting your horse just before the others he doesn't begin
his usual panic pattern. Unless the horse always misbehaves when he
increases pace he will probably just continue in the pace as the other
horses start to move. |
The long term
solution requires the help of at least one other sympathetic rider and
horse., After warming the horses up thoroughly at home first, to get
rid of any stall or standing-around tension, the two of you go out on
a familiar trail. At some point you both halt, with her in the lead.
Do whatever is necessary to get the horses standing quietly--TTeam or
clicker training is very helpful for this sort of thing. Then have her
walk her horse forward just a few strides and halt again while you
keep your horse waiting. Next let your horse walk up to hers again. If
your horse fusses try to find a moment when he is a little less fussy
to let him walk up, or let him walk up a little sooner. |
You will have to
do some experimenting to find out how to get your horse to accept this
first step. The idea is not so much to make him stand there as to get
him relaxed about it. Treats may help as well. If he is really
concerned start by having him walk away from the other horse a few
steps then turn and walk back. Throughout this you should keep your
rein aids as light and active as possible--really try to avoid tight
reins which not only make him feel threatened emotionally but
interfere with his balance as well. |
Another method
would be to start by using Tteam leading methods and taking him out in
hand until he gained a little confidence in you. However, most horses
really aren't all that difficult. |
Keep playing
around with this first step until your horse will stand with the reins
slack and wait for your signal to walk up to the other horse. Once he
will do that (and you have kissed him and hugged him and given him a
whole bag of treats) then you start increasing the distance. When you
get up to about 25 feet (8m) then go to a walk-trot test. The first
horse trots away a couple of steps while you keep walking, then you
trot up. You may get a little regression here because trotting is more
exciting than walking, but if you have laid the groundwork well he
will quickly figure it out. Then you gradually increase the distance
until she can trot away 75 to 100 feet (20-45m) without your horse
doing anything more than yawn. |
Then you do trot
to canter and then walk to canter and finally halt to canter. Just
keep in mind not to go on to the next step until the horse is really
confirmed in the previous one. If you try the next step and the horse
starts to get upset go back a few steps until he gets calm again. |
Another and almost
separate problem is number of horses. Many horses will be quite quiet
with one or two other horses but get panicky in a larger group,
especially if the other horses are strangers. The best way to approach
this is, once yours and your friend's horses are comfortable about
waiting, to go out with a small group but stay by yourselves some of
the time. You can go along with them, then turn and walk back down the
trail, then trot up, or plan to meet them. Gradually accustom them to
the larger group, then increase the size of the group. You do have to
be cautious with this; I have known horses who just couldn't deal with
a large group of horses at all. (I may say that I think that large
trail rides are a very over-rated source of recreation!) |
Hunter paces are
a great place to introduce horses to groups because they see the other
horses but they don't go with them. Gradual introduction is the key.
When my husband was breaking young horses to fox hunt, the first year
they went to the meet, looked at all the other horses and the
excitement and went home. The second year they went along about three
fields behind the others. The third year they hunted at the back and
the fourth year they hunted in the middle. Needless to say they were
perfectly mannered. |
It is well worth
spending the time to get your horse to be relaxed with other horses
and gait changes on the trail. I can't tell you how much enjoyment my
husband used to get out of sitting on his hunter with the reins
hanging loose while he waited his turn to jump, and watching all the
other horses plunging and leaping about! Talk about life's little
pleasures! |